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Going Over To The Dark Side

Posted by admin On July - 1 - 2009

Erin

I have noticed many clients of mine, many of whom have been blonde for years, are asking to move toward a more natural, darker color. When handled properly, going darker can have lots of benefits. Your hair looks thicker and shinier, you might be able to stretch the time between your appointme

nts more easily, and the fewer highlights or high lift colors used, the less damage done to the hair. With all of the concern about money, this could be a good way for you to save some cash in the long term.

You need to talk to your stylist about your best route to a darker or more natural shade. If you have been blonde for years and years you need to make this change gradually. As much as you may want to just go for it and dye all of your hair a chocolate brown, you will most likely hate it. You will think your hair is black (even though isn’t) and it is likely you will want to go back to blonde immediately. Unfortunately, color is nothing like painting a wall, so if you decide you need your blonde back, it will involve lightener (bleach). Chances of getting the hair as blonde as it was before are pretty much non-existent.

Going dark gradually has another advantage as well, color can get layered onto your hair a little bit at a time. When hair is blonde (by way of color) the hair shaft is porous and damaged allowing color molecules to dissipate easier. This is your hair color fading! The first time you color hair over blonde, it usually lightens up quickly, sometimes completely fading out by the next appointment. Each time you layer the color, more molecules stay, so it can take a few visits before your hair stays as dark as you would like. Flip side of this, is if you get low lights and hate them, wait it out. Wash your hair with hot water and a clarifying shampoo if you want it to lighten quicker, but chances are you will not hate it in a week, when the color has shifted and changed.

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Testing the waters with family and friends isn’t a bad idea either. If your significant other hates your darker hair, it’s going to make going back to blonde any easier. Sometimes what people say about how we look really effects us, so go get their opinion first!

Okay, so think about it, ask around, and do NOT attempt to go darker on your own. If your hair is blonde enough and you dye it was a nice neutral brown, your hair could turn green. I had a girl who did this and that literally ran over from University of Florida, about three miles because she realized in the harsh overhead lighting of the bathrooms of her dorm that her hair was green. Just come to the salon for a consultation (Salon La Did Da, the salon I’m a stylist) so you can discuss you opinions. There are several different techniques for going darker so you guys can really figure out which one is best for you. Bring pictures that you like, to show how dark you want to be, and discuss your fears. Move slowly, don’t try too much, and enjoy the road to darker hair that actually looks natural.

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Blown Out of Control: Color discussion Part 3 - Warm

Posted by eanding On May - 20 - 2009
ErinLast article we figured out if we were warm or cool and the implications for hair color.  Today, I am going to go into more depth in the warm tones.  If you are warm, you are either a sun or an earth (Color Me Beautiful calls these spring and autumn).
Sun
Suns usually have a creamy/tawny skin tone, sometimes with freckles.  In the sun you take on a golden tan.  Eyes are usually a lighter color flecked with gold.  Hair color tends to be warm or reddish.  Really dark haired suns tend to get a burgundy/brick red cast to their hair.  Colors that should be flattering to a sun are yellows, corals, and dusty rose.  Colors that are usually less flattering are bright pinks and blue-reds.  The colors that suns looks best in are inspired by its namesake, the sun, and its golden light.  Here are some celeb examples of suns to help you out:
Earth
Earths posess skin with coppery/terra cotta undertones.  In the sun, they tend to tan easily and can also get freckles.  The eyes are usually a little darker than the suns brown, green, or hazel.  Instead of lighter golden flecks, they tend to have deeper orange-golden flecks.  Hair can really run the gamut, but tends to get brassy (aka orange).  Colors inspired by mainly rich earth tones are best like chocolate brown and dark teal.  Colors that will not flatter are pale violet and bright fuchsia.  Some earth celebs:
You can see from the pictures that hair darkness is in really no way dependent on your classification, but also note that almost all of these women have at least a little gold or copper to their hair (all except Helen Mirren whose natural white and grey is amazing).  Suns gravitate toward yellow warm colors and earths toward more orange/amber warmth.  If you are a sun, try working in some golden bits to make the golden in your eyes really pop, and if you’re an earth try rich chocolate brown or copper.  Try new colors and see what looks good.  Try to figure out why a color doesn’t look good on you.  Is it too blue or too orange?  This will help you to find the tones that will be the most beautiful in your hair.
Next week I am moving into the cool tones, so stay tuned!

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A Few New Things At YPA Press!

Posted by Justin Newman On May - 12 - 2009

editorinchiefHello YPA Press Nation,

We’ve been hearing a lot and discussing a lot about torture at YPA Press. You’ve been reading our opinions, now it’s time to voice yours. Check out the poll on the front page of www.youngpoorandangry.com and go vote on your feelings about torture.

Have more to say about torture than just a poll? Reply to this update and let us know what you think. We’ll keep a running tab of your thoughts and comments on the site for all to see.

Also new to YPA Press comes Bella Von G. Bella is a renown fashion stylist out of Lima, Peru. Bella has worked with many today’s top fashion models and some big houses, and is now bringing her expertise to YPA Press. Check out The Scene with Bella Von G.

New this week as well is Giselle Mazur, a music journalist and editor for Shipel Magazine as well as New Voices out of New York, New York. The Phonograph Needle will be showcasing the newest talent in the music industry, as well as some finds that you won’t find anywhere else.

Finally this week, after a week long hiatus, Erin Anding is back with her column Blown Out of Control. Erin’s talking coloring and skin tone. As well as check back later in the week for Make It With Chef Dave.

Finally, YPA Press is fully twittering! That’s right, our staff is sending out tweets up a storm, to keep you up to date in the worlds of politics, news, arts and entertainment, and more! If it’s out there, it’s probably on YPA Press.

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Blown Out Of Control With Erin Anding: Coloring Continued

Posted by eanding On May - 11 - 2009
ErinHey everyone! Thanks to everyone who sent letters while I was on my vacation.  I only get one a year, so I asked the boss for the week off from writing to you guys to rechrge my batteries. It was a great time, but now we’re back to business…and today’s is color!
Last time, we talked about the more practical aspects of picking your best hair color.  From price to maintenance, there are a lot of factors that need to be considered before taking the hair color plunge.  Today we crack the surface of color theory with respect to hair, eye, and skin colors (color therapy).
There have been a few books written on this subject, the original being Color Me Beautiful by Carole Jackson.  She is the popularizer of the seasons method, which I am sure that some of you have heard of before.  More recently, Jesse Garza and Joe Lupo wrote Life in color, which I preferred.  I found the classifications easier to understand and the examples much more relevant to today.  I will be drawing much of my information from their book (not going into make-up or clothing, which the books discuss in much more detail), information from various classes I have taken, and of course personal experience.
This discussion gets tricky because very few people fit  perfectly into categories, so there can be confusion.  Don’t get too wrapped up in fitting perfectly, just absorb the information and use it to look at color differently. I want to start easy with this, so we are going to decide today, are you warm or cool?538805255_10c83f5a1e
Warm
Warm skin has a more peachy/yellow/orange tone to it more than pink and under-eye area is usually yellowish/greenish/brownish.  When you blush, you have more coral/peach/warm brown/rose colors.  The veins on the inner wrist are yellow/green.  If you’re warm you can wear colors like oranges, golden tones, peaches, and yellow-greens.
Cool
Cool skin has more of a blue/pink tone and the under-eye area is more a deep blue or purple.  When you blush, you have pink/purplish/intense blood red or no color at all in your face.  The veins on the inner wrist are blue/grey.  If you’re cool you look best in true blues, bluer-red, lavender, kelly green, and violets.
Ok, so most of us have probably classified ourselves a long time ago without even realizing it.  If you are still wavering there are 2 little tests you can do:
1. Compare gold and silver next to your skin.  Gold looks better, you’re probably warm.  The silver, you’re cool
2. Compare khaki and true white.  Khaki, you’re warm; true white, you’re cool
Warm hair colors have elements of yellow, orange, and red.  Examples: honey, strawberry, and golden brown.  Cool colors have violets, blues, and greens.  Examples: platinum, ash, and dark browns.  In general, keeping with your class is a good rule for picking hair color.  If your skin is super cool, honey blonde will probably not be the best for you.  If the over-all color of your hair contrasts your skin tone, it amplifies the circles under your eyes and other natural skin discolorations.  Choosing a color that complements your skin will highlight its best colors.  If you really want to get into colors that may not be as complementary to your skin, keep them away from your face.  Honey blonde is great on that cool girl as long as its pieces, with ash browns and blondes around the face.
Reds can be either cool or warm, so if you’re dying to be a red head you probably can!  Auburn can be worn by both warm and cool tones.  Cool skin tones can go for plum reds and bright true reds with blue undertones.  Any other reds should mostly be worn by warm people, anything that has orange to it like copper can look terrible on cool skin.
Next week we will go even further into color therapy and begin the discussion of sun, moon, earth, and star, the four color groups in the book Life In Color.
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